Monday, April 4, 2011

The Trolls Way (Geiranger, Norway)


Everytime I think of the travel wonder of Trollstigen (the Troll’s Ladder), one of Norway’s and Europe’s finest drives, I am reminded of a great story told to me as a child.

It is the story of Three Billy Goats Gruff, a fable told to children around the world (but especially Scandinavia) for over a century. In this tale, there are three goats who have run out of grass in their field and to get to more grass, they need to cross a bridge guarded by a nasty old troll (a stout Norse mythology creature with an oversized nose) who likes to eat goats. The first goat is challenged and explains that his older brother is coming and the troll let him pass with the promise of a larger meal. The second goat wanders across the bridge and again explains that his eldest brother is following closely behind and is allowed to pass. The eldest goat crosses the bridge and as the troll goes to eat him, he is gored to death, leaving the bridge safe for all times.

Trollstigen is a snaking single lane road carved out of the mountainous path between Ǻndalsnes and the extraordinarily beautiful Geirangerfjord in central Norway – an aquamarine highway of water sandwiched between towering granite walls that stand tall even among the stunningly exceptional fjords which pockmark the west coast of Norway.

The road is engulfed by a chessboard of mountains with evocative names like The King, The Queen and The Bishop. The pounding waterfall of Stigfossen finds a more direct way down the mountain cutting under the road in a few places, falling into a gushing dark stream where it is easy to believe that trolls have stealthily inhabited for centuries. Even road signs warn motorists (and cyclists – apparently trolls like cyclists) of troll crossings.



Having survived the climb of Trollstigen, its eleven hairpin turns and avoiding being on the troll’s morning tea menu, you are rewarded with a superb vista of Geirangerfjord. A ferry ride and a drive down the Eagles Road (Ørneveien) past some turf-roofed farms of yesteryear and you arrive at the delightful village of Geiranger and its extraordinary waterway.

Tourist boats ply these waters regularly in the warmer months. The steep walls of the fjord are punctuated by towering waterfalls several hundred metres in height. The two most notable falls are the lead players in another Norse tale. The elegant Seven Sisters is being wooed by a matching fall on the other side appropriately called The Suitor (these Norwegians have rich imaginations!).

Strangely on this most treasured drive, I am sure I spotted a few trolls in the distance but I didn’t see a single goat. Maybe the trolls still manage the Trollstigen crossings.

14 comments:

sgabraki23 said...

How absolutely breathtaking! Reminds me a lot of Switzerland. And I remember that story! I didn't realize thought that there were several versions of this simple fable. I was kind of hoping the original story would be more gritty and gory but I guess not every tale ends up that way! I've never visited Norway, but I can imagine the solitude and peace of the landscape. I would love to do a viking tour on this one!

sgabraki23 said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Mark h said...

@sgabraki23: I think a fair few of the Norse tales are gritty as you put it. Norway is a stunningly beautiful location.

Villa Holidays With Flights said...

The pics are really very nice.. Norway is a wonderful place and I always want to visit there.. I have heard a lot about this place.. I was wondering to know what is the best time to visit this place?

Mark H said...

@villa holidays: I'd suggest the warmer months - from June through October is better. Staying away from July and August is better for less crowds though Norway always felt quite open to me.

meg said...

Mark, I love the fable and the fantastic images. I was reminded in reading your piece and viewing the pix of my trip to Iceland, where I became acquainted with its mythology. Its very easy to see how the mystery and majesty of the landscape evokes magical beings! Very cool. I particularly loved the image of the fjord. Norway is on the list! Cheers, Meg

Sherry Ott said...

I've actually heard that story before - what an old memory! I also had no idea that trolls had oversized noses! It looks like a wonderful drive and what a great story to go with it!

Mark H said...

@meg: I love the Norse mythology and the old fables and stories. This one comes to life when you see scenery like that at Geiranger.

@sherry: The story seems more widespread than I thought...

Barbara Weibel said...

I love the way you wove the Norse fairytale about the troll into the fabric of the travel piece. I recall as a child hearing a story about tolls that live under bridges, and out heritage is English and German, so it may be one of those stories that insinuates itself into every culture in one form or another. And the photo of the fjord was stunning; I'd love to drive that hairpin road!

Mark H said...

@barbara: It's a great Norwegian tale that maybe moved into English and German folklore as well. I'm sure stories like this move around from culture to culture.

Anonymous said...

Beautiful story woven subtly into our childhood subconcious. Captiating making the scenery far more interesting possibly even magical.

Mark H said...

@anonymous: Thank you for your kind words. This childhood story so beautifully matches the majestic and grand Norwegian scenery.

Vacation Remix said...

Enjoyed the read.

Mark H said...

@vacation remix: Thanks.

 
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