Just a short stroll from the Bridge over the River Kwai is the most moving sight of Kanchanaburi War Cemetery. The Don Rak War Cemetery is the final resting place of around 5000 Commonwealth and 2,000 Dutch prisoners of war (the Americans repatriated their war dead), literally worked to death with their military colleagues under a brutal work regime. Their plaques sit on a beautifully manicured and lovingly tendered lawn, each small bronze plaque representing the loss of a father, son, husband and/or grandson. Tiny gardens and colourful blooms interlace the cemetery lovingly tendered by the Thai people.
A few people wander the cemetery in silence reading each plaque and soaking in the ultimate sacrifice made by so many brave men.
The ages of most are so young, men barely out of boyhood living their last months in such awful conditions – it is hardly imaginable. Many feature a short inscription from parents or family which adds an individual touch and character to the valiant soldier who gave his life so we can have a better and freer life today. Each phrase stirs the heart strings. Each epitaph tells a story.
A voice we love is still.
A place vacant that we can never fill.
For your tomorrow we gave our today.
He died that we might live. Ever remembered.
Some day “Tom” I will understand.
Greater Love hath no man than this. That he lay down his life.
It is estimated that one person died for each railway sleeper laid on the Death Railway.
The entrance contains a small altar with a variety of plaques and memorials. At the rear of the cemetery is a plot that carries the ashes of 300 cholera victims from an outbreak in 1943 in the Nieke camp. A large memorial cross stands like a beacon of hope in the centre of the cemetery.
Unlike the famed bridge, Don Rak captures the emotion and feeling of this area. My tears fell as I sat quietly under the tree trying to truly understand what this place means. I cried for the thousands of young men who gave up their lives so my life can be better and that our lives can be lived in freedom.
Every ANZAC Day (25 April) a small ceremony is conducted at Don Rak as it is in many cemeteries and memorials around the world and in towns, big and small, all over Australia and New Zealand. The Ode of Remembrance is read as we recall the brave people at places like Don Rak in their harrowing experiences in building this railway.
They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old:
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun and in the morning,
We will remember them.
Lest we forget.
Saturday, September 10, 2011
Tears at Don Rak War Cemetery (Kanchanaburi, Thailand)
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17 comments:
I remember this as one of the most educational and moving places I visited in Thailand. I was stunned by the cemetery as I had originally just planned to see the bridge. I agree with you. The cemetery is much more moving and educational. Thanks for a lovely post on a tough subject.
@sherry: I was also surprised how it was given much less notice than the bridge. I guess cemeteries are difficult to "promote" but this one is so well done, so beautifully maintained and so moving.
Such sad place although it looks perfectly calm. It is too bad world's history is full of massive death and other awful events....
you right mark cemeteries are difficult to promote but u cant deny the beauty of this structure
@felicity: it is an extremely serene place despite the horror of what caused the deaths. Sadly it is our history and I am not sure it is about to change.
@henry: It is peaceful and tastefully done. The plaques are well thought out so that they survive the ravages of the local tropical climate.
Such sad place although it looks perfectly calm.
Tours and Travels
Its a very calm place, very peaceful. But still its a very sad place to visit. Hope the souls of these fighters rest in peace.
It is so touching to see that the plaques and the whole cemetery is so well taken care of. This way the victims and their sacrifice really are remembered.
@tours and travel: A beautiful feeling of serenity and respect.
@pooja: Yes, may they rest in peace. They are buried with their friends and comrades - maybe the only other people who really understand what they went through.
@phoenix flyer: The cemetery is tended with remarkable love and attention by the Thais. All credit to them.
Thanks for this difficult post. You presented it beautifully.
@vera: Thank you for your kind remarks.
As my husband was in the army I try to visit war cemeteries around the world and have always found them to be most beautifully kept - the east we can do for thos who died and their families
@heather: I, too, try to visit war cemeteries around the world. I am touched by the love and tender care most are given and the air of respect and solemnity that they engender.
A person must visit this location to make his traveling enjoyable.
@india tourism: Not sure about enjoy, but it certainly should be a place that people visit if they are near to Kanchanaburi.
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