Driving only a couple of blocks through along Hokitika’s main street leaves no-one in any doubt as to the main attraction of the area – greenstone. The local Maori population has always treasured the valued greenstone (or jade) found in nearby rivers and along the beach. The Hokitika Museum has many beautiful pieces of greenstone, from boulders straight from the river to wonderfully worked pieces.
Numerous shops and studios are town engage in carving, polishing and selling greenstone. Their showrooms are full of wonderful pieces of greenstone whether it be large unworked boulders or ornately detailed jewellery, figurines and artworks, some with a classic Maori flavour. Next to the showroom, visitors can witness the painstaking work carefully shaping the hardened rock into delicate works of art.
And shops not working greenstone are typically involved in another art or craft, whether it is glass blowing, painting or jewellery. Stunning ruby rock, a precious gemstone is unique to Hokitika and is a glistening combination of ruby, sapphire and tourmaline crystals.
The town has few reminders of its gold-mining past though the historic buildings have a striking grandeur about them, especially the perky clock tower which combines as a memorial to the Boer War and for King Edward VII’s coronation.
However the highlight of Hotitika is a superb half day loop drive around Lake Kaniere to Hokitika Gorge (get a map from the extremely helpful i-Site, Kiwi for information centre). A short meandering walk on the lake tracks through ancient virgin Kahikatea forest. These gun- barrel straight trees rear up to 60 metres from the forest floor. Though the oldest in this forest is 500 years, their species have been around since the dinosaurs. Loving the wet fertile swampy grounds characteristics of the rainy West Coast, the trunks of these trees support a staggering amount of lichens, mosses and plant life. 
A little further on, elegant Dorothy Falls plunges 60 metres out of the forest on the roadside running into peaceful Lake Kaniere. Driving further around the lake through verdant dairy farmyards, the road diverts off to the glacier-inspired milky turquoise waters of Hokitika Gorge.
A return walk of around half an hour through pleasant forest over an obligatory swing bridge (keep walking the extra five minutes past the bridge for excellent views down the gorge) offers superb vantage points of the gorge before being able to perch on the boulders on the gorge edge dangling your feet (briefly) in the icy waters.
The final goal of the day is to obtain some treasured whitebait. These tiny translucent fish (inch or two long) swarm in rivers in spring and are captured using handheld nets. The delicacy is sold by volume (rather than weight) and is mixed with egg, milk and flour and fried to form scrumptious whitebait fritters. The bad news is that they are seasonal and we are six months from the correct time and so whitebait fritters are not on the menu. The good news is we opted for pizza. Fat Pippi Pizza is a local institution designed in driftwood and wooden slabs with a lively buzz, offering superb pizzas (with a flair) and run by a larger-than-life west coast character. They even offer whitebait pizza in season!!
Hokitika makes for a wonderful day along New Zealand’s West Coast with superb surrounding scenery and a town heavy on arts and crafts.
Thursday, May 3, 2012
Greenstone, Whitebait and Gorge (Hokitika, New Zealand)
Wednesday, April 25, 2012
Lest We Forget!
Today is Anzac Day, the national remembrance day of Australia and New Zealand when people pay their respects and honour the bravery, courage, resilience and sacrifice of the service men and women of our country. Dawn services are conducted all throughout the country, at Anzac Cove in Turkey, throughout battefields in South East Asia and throughout Western Front villages in France and Belgium.
This wonderful and moving painting (click on it for a larger image) appears in the outstanding Australian War Memorial in Canberra. It is my favourite single piece in the entire collection.
The haunting Menin Gate at Midnight appears by itself in a darkened room with background music of Schubert’s Unfinished Symphony. Reportedly painted in one sitting by a deeply mournful Will Longfellow, the painting captures the famed gates in Ypres, Belgium that tens of thousands of soldiers passed heading to the Western Front. Today, the walls of the gate list 54,000 Commonwealth soldiers with no known grave, a small portion of the quarter of a million lives lost in this area of battle during World War One. The painting eerily and movingly portrays Longfellow's vision of thousands of spirits of the dead rising and marching towards the battlefields.
At all Anzac Day services, the Ode of Remembrance is always read.
They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old:
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun and in the morning,
We will remember them.
Lest We Forget!
Monday, April 23, 2012
Pancake Rocks: A Layered Wonderland (Punakaiki, New Zealand)
Sandwiched between the uninspiring towns of Westport and Greymouth are the extraordinary Pancake Rocks - the ocean sprays, pounds and bursts through fissures in unusually carved and layered rocks near the tiny village of Punakaiki.
Constructed of stratified limestone formed thirty millions years ago, this geological wonderland was formed on the seabed, kilometres underwater, with layer after layer of shellfish, plants and dead marine creatures mixed with mud and clay forming over time. The immense weight and water pressure gradually compressed and petrified into soft and hard layers. Earth tremors and seismic action uplifted the seabed where constant ocean surges and whipping winds carved bizarre and wonderful features and formations, while rainwater leeched into the rock eating narrow alleys.
Naturally, the softer rock has eroded much faster causing the unusual pancake stack appearance. The ocean surges in and out of pools, blowholes and caverns making deep hollow booms while seawater channels through narrow tunnels spraying into the air in a spray of rainbows and thin mist. Like limestone caves, the erosion allows imagination to witness all kind of animals and figures from the rock – a lion head staring menacingly out to sea.
A scenic half hour path meanders through native rainforest to the coast, high above the bluffs, arches and sea caves offering numerous views of Pancake Rocks. Natural staircases are carved from the historic seabed while vantage points look over surge pools and blowholes and offer panoramic vistas down the coastline.
With good planning, high tide is prime time with the extra height of the water powering sea water through tiny passageways shooting spray high into the air.
Pancake Rocks are a wonderful natural diversion driving down the New Zealand west coast offering stellar scenes of exotically shaped rock weathered and sculpted over millions of years.
Friday, April 20, 2012
An Appropriate Name (Cape Foulwind, New Zealand)
The day is foul – a wind howls across the point resisted by only the hardiest of scrubby bushes and toughened grasses. Surf pounds relentlessly into the west coast’s limestone cliffs and volcanic beaches. Brooding dark seas merge into the pewter grey clouds blurring any idea of a horizon, a lonely characterless lighthouse warning all things marine to steer a careful path around this treacherous area. The original 1876 lighthouse was a fine timber building, its gleaming beacon guiding vessels for 50 years before being replaced by the current concrete automated lighthouse. Functional but rather unattractive.
In March 1770 the weather was no different for Captain Cook as Endeavour, at the mercy of the persistent gale-force winds, was blown off-course prompting him to appropriately name the point Cape Foulwind – today only a few kilometres south of the uninspiring town of Westport.
Almost indistinguishable from rocks and driftwood debris thrown by the savage waves, New Zealand Fur Seals luxuriate and relax at nearby Cape Tauranga. Sea spray showers the rocky shoreline, seals basking in the brutal weather conditions. The pockmarked coastline is only distinguishable as a faint greyish line in the murky atmosphere.
In the scrubby foreshore vegetation, western wekas fuss about their bushy hideaways. These plucky birds confidently go about their day oblivious to hiking travellers. Dealt a bad hand, birds like the kiwi and weka evolved into ground dwellers and lost the ability to fly due to the complete absence of mammals and rodents as predators when the continental split happened many millions of years ago. Sadly in the last thousand years as mammals and rodents reached the shores of New Zealand, populations of these wonderful but defenceless feathered creatures were decimated.
On a map as a thin long ribbon of red, SH6 weaves and meanders the full length of the west coast of New Zealand from Nelson in the north to Invercargill in the south. It makes for one of the world’s more inspiring drives with numerous areas of natural beauty – glaciers, fjords, cliffs, panoramic vistas, caves and weird rock formations - only occasionally interrupted by townships.
The west coast of New Zealand gets a considerable share of rough weather and rainfall, conditions which have carved and crafted the evocative coastline. Whether in glistening sunshine or foulwind, the drive down the west coast is an exhilarating natural experience encapsulated by the twin points of Cape Foulwind and Cape Tauranga.
Sunday, April 15, 2012
Pelorus Sound Scenic Reserve (New Zealand)
The Rai Swingbridge crosses the deep aquamarine blue of Rai River as part of a beautiful gentle walking circuit through totara forest (one of several walks in the area). This sturdy structure has far less swing and sway than its cousin over Buller Gorge.
It is all part of Pelorus Sound Scenic Reserve, a wonderfully preserved pocket of historic forest encrusting the far sinewy reaches of Pelorus Sound. It is a perfect stopping point between Queen Charlotte Sound and Nelson to stretch the legs and enjoy the uplifting New Zealand outdoors. Fat lumbering brown trout can be spotted sluggishly swimming upstream through the crystalline waters.
Thursday, April 12, 2012
Buller Gorge Swingbridge (New Zealand)
The road from Nelson to the west coast of New Zealand weaves through some spectacular mountain and gorge country. The road follows and falls with the river the scenery draped in a veil of verdant green foliage and murky mists.
At over 100 metres in length near the uninteresting town of Murchison is New Zealand’s longest swingbridge. Spanning dramatic Buller Gorge carved by energetic aquamarine green waters, the bridge sways and bounces with its human cargo. Not for sufferers of vertigo photographers nervously snap a memory from the centre of the bridge balancing their camera in one hand while clinging grimly to the cable with the other. 
The area has witnessed some exciting events. A brief gold rush in the mid 1800s oversaw a speedy population increase, hopeful miners panned and dug seeking their fortunes with a lucky strike. A short damp circuit walk from the swingbridge through primeval ferns and moss-encrusted trees holds memories of the harsh conditions in which these miners laboured. Primitive labour-intensive mining equipment and deep shafts line the path while meagre shacks with little more than a large fireplace and small bed offered refuge from the regular rains and harsh winters.
The circuit passes a small cliff-face where in June, 1929 a major earthquake (7.8 on the Richter scale) lifted land upwards some 4.5 metres. Across the river a small waterfall cascades into the river on the fault line. In 1968 a second earthquake reminded Kiwis of the unsteady land of the area, the main road requiring reconstruction in parts.
The gorge is a major centre for water sports Kiwi-style, including white-water rafting, kayaking and jetboating. For those seeking more dry land adrenalin than the swingbridge, a zipline offers a return journey in either the seated position (flying fox style) or a flying position for those with superhero tendencies.
Buller Gorge provides a wonderful scenic stop crossing to New Zealand’s west coast with numerous opportunities for adrenalin-fuelled activities along with reminders of a harsh history of savage earthquakes and tough mining.
Monday, April 9, 2012
Stoked with Craft Beer (Nelson, New Zealand)
With ideal growing conditions for hops, the Nelson region boasts around 20 craft breweries many producing novel and unusual beers along with the more traditional brewed offerings. One highly recommended place is McCashin's Brewery in Stoke only a few kilometres from the centre of Nelson (and near the unique World of WearableArt Museum). 
Working in an old cider factory, McCashin's produce beer, cider, fruit drinks and vodka (and bottled water), all based an aquifer holding 26000 year old water (hence the name 26000 Vodka). Swearing by its incredible purity the water has been cutely trademarked as palaeo water (as in palaeolithic).
The McCashin name is synonymous with Kiwi beer, the first family venture by father Terry resulting in the popular Macs beers, since bought by the brewing behemoth Lion Nathan. After serving a period out of the game as part of the contractual terms of the sale, the son Dean (with wife Emma) has taken the head role in this new venture out of the same factory. 
A visit to McCashin's includes an informative tour taking people through each element of the brewing process – all based on the traditional four brewing ingredients (McCashins beers are all based on the original 16th century Bavarian beer purity rules) – water, hops, yeast and malt. The first of the two most noteworthy elements of the tour are the beer nursery where the commercial process has been miniaturised so a barrel or two of beer can be experimentally brewed and perfected tweaking the fermenting temperatures, styles and amounts of hops and malt for different beers. At times, unusual flavoured beers are produced – some for special occasions such as Christmas. The other striking element of the tour is the remarkable bottling machine where empty bottles are filled, sealed, cleaned, labelled and packaged in an eye-opening flurry of mechanical activity.
The tastings at McCashin's are generous and entertaining. In a retro-styled room that combines a cafeteria (serving coffees and snacks during the day) and a bar, a staff member patiently shares tastes of the broad selection of beers, ciders and fruit juices combining characteristics of each drop with stories. Artworks, photos and brewing paraphernalia fill the walls, while the place with its comfy couches has an infectious positive feel of relaxed enthusiasm. 
While there are over a dozen beers, personal favourites include Stoke Amber (a reddish brew rich in malt flavours with a definite hint of toffee), Stoke Dark (a velvety smooth caramel-y black beer without the heaviness), Stoke IPA (a golden intensely hoppy and citrus-y beer ideal for warm weather), Stoke Smoky Ale (deep red-brown coloured beer with an unusual touch of smokiness) and Stoke Ginger (non-alcoholic balancing sweetness with the refreshing tang of ginger).
Ciders include the traditional apple though I prefer the pear cider. A real highlight is the fruit cider drinks (called Frute) with lumps of fruit in strongly flavoured offerings. The Mango Lime combines the succulent smoothness of mango with the tang of lime and apple while the visually striking Berry provides a plush sumptuous mix of raspberries, boysenberries and blackberries complemented by the tanginess of apples. Don’t be fooled however, Frute contains around the same alcohol as beer.
To help sustain my further touring in New Zealand, I popped into the small bottle store to stock up with a few favourites from the tasting and also a couple of well-priced seconds and specials.
Only a few years in existence, McCashin's captures the lively spirit of craft brewing with an excellent variety of products and a brisk information-rich tour (runs twice daily) highlighting the art of brewing beer. It makes for a wonderful afternoon diversion while visiting Nelson and is an ideal example of the Nelson region's fine tradition in craft beers.
More details are available at their website: www.mccachins.co.nz
Monday, April 2, 2012
Luxury Escape in Nelson (New Zealand)
With no map, we checked at a local restaurant for directions to the Wheelhouse Inn. The owner said “Oh, that’s Ralph and Sally’s place. It’s beautiful. You’ll love it”. And he was so correct.
From when we first moored our car in the anchorage – everything at The Wheelhouse Inn has a nautical theme – the place has a wonderful relaxed feel. Opening the door of the Wheelhouse, a modern self-contained timber-panelled house, panoramic vistas immediately strike. With huge picture windows, the place overlooks Nelson’s Tasman Bay and the narrow deep channel where pilot boats skilfully steer large cargo vessels in and out of port.
Nestling into a tranquil expansive garden of native shrubs and trees, the Wheelhouse is just one of five self-contained multi-level houses and units overlooking Nelson’s Tasman Bay. The Captain’s Quarters, Crows Nest, Chart House Main Deck and Chart House Upper Deck all offer spectacular views and distinctive accommodation.
The Wheelhouse is spotlessly clean, spacious and tastefully appointed for a stay of several days including comfortable lounge area (including large TV, DVD, CD player and high-speed cable internet), outdoor gas BBQ, upstairs main bedroom and downstairs laundry (with dryer). The place is filled with absorbing nautical pictures and maritime knick-knacks including the steering wheel of a large ship that sunk many years ago.
While numerous eating options are simply a matter of strolling down the hill, the full-equipped modern kitchen offers an opportunity to eat in and watch evening envelop the Nelson waterfront. There is even a set of binoculars to watch the maritime entertainment or view the playful tuis enjoy the bloom-laden garden.
Befitting Nelson’s thriving art culture, the Wheelhouse offers handsome handmade pottery coffee cups (and plunger coffee). Ralph is a keen artist himself, his studio turning out quirky kiln-fired glazed seagulls, each with its own unique personality skilfully portrayed by subtle changes to its eyes, beak and stance, many securing a prized fish.
I cannot imagine a better start to the day than watching vibrant orange and burnished gold light the dawn sky slowly illuminating Tasman Bay, all from the comfort of bed. The Wheelhouse is a peaceful place, ideal for a special occasion or for a few days exploring Nelson and neighbouring Abel Tasman National Park.
Bookings and details about The Wheelhouse Inn can be found here.
The Wheelhouse Inn provided a complimentary overnight stay to the author. As always, the content and opinions are mine and are not influenced by the provision of discounted or free services. In this case, I highly recommend The Wheelhouse Inn. It provides highlight luxury accommodation in vibrant Nelson overlooking stunning Tasman Bay.
Thursday, March 29, 2012
WOW: A World of Cars and Couture (Nelson, New Zealand)
"Athletes have the Olympics; actors have the Oscars; musicians have the Grammys; and designers and costume creators have WOW"
Bob Haven, professor in Costume Technology at Kentucky University.
Like a cocktail of Cirque du Soleil and Carnivale, every September an extraordinary Wellington spectacular morphs choreographed music, theatre, colour, lighting and dance to showcase a magical evening of fantasy, fashion and art. Called the World of WearableArt (WOW for short) and the brainchild of Suzie Moncrieff, a challenge was issued in 1987 to designers and artists to create a piece of art that could be worn and modelled. Now in its 25th year, the show continues to grow in scale and imagination with prizes in a number of categories. 
With its rich arts culture and as the birthplace of this now worldwide extravaganza, Nelson hosts the superb and unique World of WearableArt and Collectible Cars Museum (the WOW website is here). Proudly showcasing the award-winning costumes from recent shows visitors can experience the creative talents and wild imaginations of some of the world’s finest designers.
The first gallery couples artistic music and lighting with a stage area and seating. The bizarre garments are beautifully showcased on a moving carousel of catwalk mannequins while other creations inspired by dragonflies, birdlife and sea creatures float overhead. A full range of avant-garde materials including shiny metal plates, bicycle inner tubes, sea shells, wire, bottle tops, light bulbs, papier-mâché, drinking straws, fruit, cutlery, fine silks, dried food and more are mixed to create truly spellbinding outfits. 
Eye-popping WearableArt bras are especially notable for their creative approach covering a full spectrum of ideas from metallic space wear to bowls of fruit and nautical-inspired designs.
A second gallery is darkened to showcase a psychedelic array of fluorescent costumes. Akin to wandering the inky ocean depths, a neon gallery of exotic headwear, dresses, bras and winged costumes phosphoresce vivid reds, blues, yellows, violets and greens.
A theatrette (which I’d suggest viewing first though it is at the end of the galleries) shows clips from recent WOW events in Wellington highlighting some of the exceptional designs and living the founder’s dream of taking art off the wall to adorn the moving body.
Within the same museum is a superb collection of around forty classic cars. Presented as a celebration of automotive design and workmanship, iconic cars from every decade of last century are represented. Historic Fords, Cadillacs, Ferraris, Studebakers, Bentleys and convertibles (along with a personal favourite – a 1929 Packard) glisten with immaculate chrome and paintwork, all in sound mechanical condition. For the true car enthusiasts, a further 100 cars are accessible in a separate nearby warehouse, the collection rotated on a regular basis. 
WOW is the word. It is little surprise that as the creative arts capital of New Zealand, Nelson has a museum dedicated to fashion and design but the World of WearableArt and Collectible Cars Museum exceeds all expectations. Ensure you stop by this airy modern two-in-one museum with a difference and enjoy a beautifully displayed showcase of spellbinding creative outfits along with a lovingly assembled collection celebrating automotive excellence. The gift shop is worth a browse for a thoughtful range of locally-sourced arts and treasures well outside of the normal souvenirs.
The costume photos are copyright of World of WearableArt and Collectible Cars Museum and have been reproduced with permission.
Image 1: Dragon Fish, designed by Susan Holmes
Image 2: Firebird, designed by Susan Holmes
Image 3: Superminx, designed by Simon Hames
Image 4: Ornitho-Maia, designed by Nadine Jaggi
Please respect the copyright of these works of art.
Monday, March 26, 2012
Abel Tasman: Seals, Sand and Scenery (New Zealand)
Abel Tasman National Park is one of the most alluring and beautiful natural wonders in New Zealand. On the protected and more weather-friendly side of New Zealand’s South Island, the 54 kilometre three to five-day coastal track combines lush forests with sculpted granite cliffs and pristine bays and coves fringed by golden sands. Tiny rocky islands sit enticingly offshore supporting a rich variety of native marine and bird life.
While the national park is named for a mid-1600s Dutch sailor Abel Tasman who fled without landing after being spooked by the local Maori population, the French explorer D’Urville navigated and anchored in the area leaving his mark with exotic French names for some of the bays and landmarks.
Outside of a walk and the general stunning coastal scenery, two notable highlights are Split Apple Rock and Tonga Island. As if cut cleanly in half by a giant’s axe, a large granite boulder perches in aquamarine water just off the coastline. While legends abound, there appears no certain explanation as to the rock’s perfect dissection except that it happened a very long time ago.
Despite the inclement weather, on Tonga Island, New Zealand Fur Seals luxuriate and relax on the rocks while fur seal pups exuberantly swim and play in the rock pools that fringe the islands. Acutely aware of the sharp tidal differences of over five metres, mother fur seals feed at low tide making for a shorter dive to harvest the rich pickings of the sea floor. Dolphins are seen travelling in the bow wave of the boat while I spot a couple of shy blue penguins as they bob their tiny heads above the water. The captain points out that he never announces penguin sightings as by the time he has said pen, the bashful birds have dived away.
In one slightly strange phenomenon, the sands on the various beaches vary distinctly from a reddish colour and gritty feel to near white and powdery soft on the feet, caused by the angle of the beaches, the size of the granite sand grains and the bleaching effects of the sun.
The excellent services of Abel Tasman Sea Shuttle allow visitors with only a few hours or a day to experience a portion of the park without embarking on the full multi-day walk (click on the map below to enlarge). Chatting with returning passengers, one couple had spent a week camping, relaxing and taking short strolls at the northerly point of Totaranui while a group of three spoke enthusiastically after returning for a second year to walk a different section of the track. Yet another couple had enjoyed lunch and a short walk at Awaroa Lodge while two youngsters spoke of kayaking the shoreline near Coquille Bay.
By taking a later return shuttle, people can combine a scenic cruise with walking a leg of the coastal track, kayaking a section of the rocky coastline and/or lunching at the Awaroa Lodge. Others simply stay on board to enjoy the scenic cruise with a commentary describing the history of the park while visiting a number of forest-fringed golden beaches, the seal colony and unusual rock formations. For those without access to Kaiteriteri, a bus runs from Motueka while the first service of the day travels from the thriving artsy city of Nelson (50 minutes away via boat), returning with the last service of the day.
Sitting shallow in the water, the Abel Tasman Sea Shuttle water taxi vessels are purpose-built for the Abel Tasman National Park accounting for the high tidal variations, beach landings, space for bags and gear for campers and a small refreshing café where snacks, hot and cold drinks are available. Their cleverly designed ramps unfurl from the front of the vessel and allow easy access to and from the beach without a need to ever get wet feet, wet gear or to climb steps.
From the reddish-tinged sands of Kaiteriteri, the Abel Tasman Sea Shuttles stops at six different beaches and bays dropping hikers, kayakers and day-trippers off and picking others up. With parts of the walk involving stream or estuary crossings only passable around low tide, the vessel’s crew offer plenty of advice to ensure that walkers time their ventures with the tides.
Sometimes omitted from visitors' itineraries, the top of New Zealand's South Island is stunning highlighted by the magnificent coastline, beaches, wildlife and forests of Abel Tasman National Park. While it is easy to spend a week in this picture-postcard park, it is easy for those with limited time to get a taste of this scenic area, experiencing its secluded beauty by any combination of trekking the fine coastal path, paddling a kayak or soaking its panoramic vistas from the comfort of a water taxi.
Abel Tasman Sea Shuttle provided a complimentary journey to the author. As always, the content and opinions are mine and are not influenced by the provision of discounted or free services. In this case, I highly recommend Abel Tasman Sea Shuttles. This award-winning family business has a deserved fine reputation for their comfortable and innovative catamarans, competitive pricing, enthusiastic helpful crew and for their tremendous knowledge and passion for the Abel Tasman area.
Further details on the Abel Tasman Coastal Track are available here.
Map courtesy of Abel Tasman Sea Shuttle.
