An old Congolese man on his haunches nods knowingly. Seated on the dusty smooth ground on the banks of the Congo River (how can people crouch for hours?) in Kisangani (destination for the Congo River boat) under the cool of a tree, I know my fate. He utters a few words in his local language in a rumbling voice so deep the sounds seem to emanate from the earth below. His beaming smile and sharp mind illuminate the shaded area, glistening white teeth against a wizened dark face. The swelling crowd (that started at none) laugh, my hesitant moves no match for his decades of experience. After a couple of bad losses I am receiving assistance from the crowd and at one point even a pointer from the opponent but to no avail - Mancala is a game of skill and experience.
Mancala appear to be a little like chess or go, the rules are easy enough to grasp but the strategy to be a good player takes a lifetime to gather. Even after a few months of playing in many villages, I am little more than a novice.
Mancala is one of my most abiding memories of a year in Africa. Especially in West and central Africa, this game is played everywhere. Whether played with seeds on a carved wooden board with seeds or with pebbles on a makeshift board with holes dug in the ground, Mancala is an enthralling game.
While the rules of Mancala appear to vary from nation to nation (as does its name which include awale and kalah), the basic game is played as follows. Mancala is played on a board with two rows of six shallow holes, and two larger holes on each side of the board. You own the holes nearest to you while your opponent owns the holes on the opposite side. The large hole in front or to the right of you is called the mancala.
The object of the game is to capture as many seeds as possible with the winning player having the most seeds at the end of the game wins.
To play, a player selects one of their holes and distributes the seeds anticlockwise in a move called sowing. Distribution of stones wraps around the board, placing a stone in the player's mancala along the way, but not placing one in the opponent's mancala (if the stones get that far).
If the last stone placed in a hole lands in your mancala, you get another turn. Otherwise it is your opponent's turn. Additionally, if the last stone placed lands in one of your holes that is empty, and the hole opposite contains stones, you steal your opponent's stones. Your last stone and your opponent's stones are placed in your mancala, and it is then your opponent's turn. General protocol doesn't allow the physical counting of seeds in a hole so judgement is important.
The game is over when one player is out of stones, or when a player has more than half the stones in the game.
Mancala is a great introduction to village life in Africa and brokered a number of special moments journeying across Africa. My win-loss record through the year was shameful but the memories stay deeply treasured. My Mancala board bought from the Ivory Coast (home of the world's largest church) remains ready for play, though players in Australia are trickier to find!
Photo Credits: game in progress, red dirt game
Thursday, March 1, 2012
Games Around the World: Mancala (Africa)
Monday, November 21, 2011
Top Five Sights in Cape Town (South Africa)
guest post by Amy Baker
Located on the very tip of the African continent, at the point where the Atlantic and Indian Oceans collide, is the beautiful city of Cape Town. Tourists and locals are treated to breathtaking views of land and sea at every turn and beaches so perfect they will spoil other countries offerings in a heartbeat. Expect to dine upon the freshest seafood served as standard at the best Cape Town restaurants washed down with a bottle of the regions finest. Here is a list of the Top Five activities during your time in town.
1. Table Mountain
No matter where you are staying, there is no doubt that you will be able to see this imposing mountain from your Cape Town hotels. Table Mountain is part of the beautiful Table Mountain National Park and if you are into hiking, caving or rock climbing – there are an abundance of great sites to visit. The unusual flat plateau stretches for 3km from side to side with Devil’s Peak to the east and Lion’s Head to the west. Expect to be rewarded with views that you will never forget. If the idea of hiking brings you out in a cold sweat before the walking has even begun we suggest hopping in a cable car that will have you at the top in only 6 minutes.
2. Diving with Great White Sharks
It may sound like something from your worst nightmares but cage diving with Great White Sharks is fast becoming Cape Town’s most popular tourist activity. Once aboard your boat of choice you will be whisked off to nearby Dyer Island which, due to various geographical reasons and the 40,000 strong seal colony, is a popular spot for these beasts of the sea. Once you have braved the cold to hop in to the cage, it will only be minutes before coming face to face with this terrifying ocean predator.
3. Tour the beaches
Whether you prefer secluded coves or long, sandy beaches, Cape Town has it all. Top up your tan, enjoy a lazy afternoon picnic or rub shoulders with the who’s who of Cape Town at trendy hangout, Clifton Beach. Some of the best accommodation in Cape Town offers spectacular ocean views and means you will only be a hop, skip and a jump from the water. If you don’t fancy tackling the surf then you can always swing by False Bay where you can take a dip in the tidal pool.
4. Robben Island
For nearly 400 years, Robben Island was where political opponents, social outcasts and undesirables were exiled. Nelson Mandela spent over two decades incarcerated on Robben Island as the island's most famous prisoner (photo of his cell). You can take a fascinating tour, conducted by ex-political prisoners and learn all about the prison’s history. This spot is a chilling reminder of the price that newly democratic South Africa has paid for their freedom.
5. Take a wine tour
Just a 45-minute drive out of Cape Town is the Stellenbosch wine region, home of much loved tipples Saxenburg and Delheim. This historical university town is home to the countries first wine route which was founded in 1971. You can easily spend a lazy day navigating between wineries and purchasing souvenirs along the way.
With the incomparable Table Mountain at the heart of the city, wonderful surrounding vistas, relaxing beaches, fascinating wildlife and scenic drives, Cape Town deserves its billing as one of the world's premier cities to visit.
Photo Credits: shark, vineyard, cell
Monday, September 19, 2011
Five Magical Experiences in Marrakech (Morocco)
guest post by Low Cost Holidays
Part of Marrakech’s appeal is its mystique; behind the Atlas Mountains what lies in wait is a gateway for some unforgettable experiences in Africa’s most northerly state. Marrakech is a destination to suit many, offering a break in the sun, a cosmopolitan weekend or a short break to experience Africa. Holidays to Marrakech delight, offering equal measures of thrill and tranquillity that are unique to the bustling centre of Morocco. Although luxurious, Marrakech is low cost and is certainly the cheapest way to experience Africa.
Upon reaching Marrakech you will be welcomed with an array of sensual delights, and no doubt mahabba - the warmth of the Marrakechi people. What to experience first, and where to visit will be questions running through your mind as excitement builds when you land. What follows are five unforgettable experiences in Marrakech.
5. A unique view of Marrakech - Hot Air Balloon Above the City
Experience Marrakech from a unique perspective, hot air balloon rides 30 miles west of Marrakech let you experience dawn in Africa and form a close relationship with Marrakech’s landscape. Float gently into the morning sky and see the prevailing views of Marrakech, the surrounding desert and the snow-capped Atlas Mountains. This excursion is a prime example of how and why Marrakech drifts effortlessly between thrill and tranquillity.
4. Cleanse and Relax in the Centre of the City - Hammam in Marrakech
A dose of Marrakech’s tranquil side is the experience of a hammam, a heaven of body washes and relaxation. Hammams in Marrakech are prevalent and are one of the highlights of Marrakech holidays, ranging from cheaper public hammams to luxurious private spas. Public spas are common and much cheaper, a full body wash and exfoliation is completed in around an hour. Beware that the public experience is shared, but typically remains to same sex rooms. Luxury spas deliver a fully personable experience, with steam, gommage (scrubbing), full body massage, seaweed wrap and full body and hair wash. What is supplied is personal masseuses and carers at the reasonable western price of around £45 (US$70).
3. Drink Mint Teas as the Jeema El Fna Square Bustles - Drinking in Marrakech
The Jeema El Fna Square truly represents the thrill of Marrakech, but if the hustle and bustle of one of the world’s busiest market places is too much for you enjoy it another way. What is highly recommended on Marrakech holidays is sampling the Marrakech delicacy Mint tea in unique style. Relax on a terrace overlooking the square just as the sun sets and the enticing smells of grilled meat and Moroccan spice pollutes the air sending you into a hypnotic state.
2. Explore the Atlas Mountain Range - Exploring Morocco and Marrakech
The Atlas Mountains stretches an incredible 2,500 km across Northern Africa, and stands tall next to Marrakech providing a home to the Berber population. On tours to the mountains you experience the natural and unspoilt beauty of the region; coloured rock cliffs, natural waterfalls and mountain streams provide spots of tranquillity. Part of the experience also includes the meeting of Berbers and visits to rural markets within the mountains, providing a taste of mountain life and the meeting of new cultures. The best is reserved to last as you peer back across Marrakech and Morocco in awe.
1. Experience the Jeema El Fna Square - The Heart of Marrakech
The Jeema El Fna Square sits proudly in the heart of Marrakech, prominently known as one of the world’s busiest market places and truly unique in the entertainment it provides. Wonder through this maze of market stalls and enchanting entertainment which provides a true taste of Marrakechi culture and the regions renowned hospitality. Orange juice sellers, snake charmers and monkey handlers fill the market during the day providing an environment to shop and sample. By night the atmosphere changes and wild aromas fill the air, local musicians play and the hustle and bustle of the square can truly be enjoyed.
Photo Credits: hammam, atlas mountains
Tuesday, September 13, 2011
Recapturing the Thrill of Travel with an African Safari Adventure
guest post by Mahlatini
High speed rail, long-haul flights, cruise liners and now social media and the internet; these are things, facets of modern society that today many travellers take for granted. The emergence of new technologies continues to make our planet a smaller place and it seems those frontiers that were once undiscovered and those paths once un-trampled are quickly disappearing. Perhaps it is for this reason that a growing community of travellers are now endeavouring to find new and exciting experiences and unusual ways to interact with the world around them.
One region that does seem to still embody that sense of mystery, wilderness and wonder is Southern Africa and it appears that more and more enthusiastic travellers are looking to the remote and unspoiled nature of this area and its fascinating, if not at times tumultuous history, in order to recapture some of the thrill and adventure that had once defined international travel.
An African safari is a wonderful way to connect with nature; to gain a true insight into the geography and ecology of a nation as well as encounter some of the most iconic wildlife on the planet. The word safari itself in Swahili can be translated as journey but how you make that journey is entirely up to you. From canoeing tours down the great Zambezi to balloon flights over the vast sands of Namibia’s Sossusvlei region; gorilla trekking in the dense forests of Uganda’s highlands to horseback adventures around the wetlands of the Okavango Delta there is something to satisfy every persuasion and predisposition.
As we as people become increasingly conscious of our place within the world and how we interact with the environment around us conservation is becoming an overriding consideration in almost every aspect of our lives including travel. Environmental and zoological research is becoming more and more important as an increasing number of our great animal species come to face extinction. In a move to encourage awareness as well as aid the work of these dedicated individuals a new and rather privileging experience is to take part in an animal research safari. 
Phinda Private Game Reserve in South Africa is particularly renowned for its study of one of the most elusive large carnivores in Africa, the leopard. The continuing efforts of the staff at Phinda has produced invaluable data to help scientists and zoologists understand in much more detail the lives of these beautiful animals and today visitors can too contribute towards this programme. Guests are invited onto the private conservancy to help track, guide and collect information on the community of resident leopards not only promising a rewarding experience but allowing individuals to get up close and personal with these beguiling big cats.
Another way to immerse yourself into the culture and heritage of Southern Africa is to partake in a bushmen safari. These experiences are favoured in countries including Zambia and particularly Botswana. Some concerns often expressed are that these encounters are for the native tribesmen and women a patronizing and rather insensitive ordeal but in reality by moving away from the more choreographed and archetypal ‘cultural tours’ and truly immersing yourself into the every day lives of these intelligent, humble and fascinating people you are able to gain a real perspective into the true Africa. 
Walk side by side with real bushmen trackers and observe as they guide their children on a coming-of-age ‘initiation hunt’ providing a rare glimpse of an ancient ritual that has been past down though the years; a transfer of practical skills and knowledge that ensures the beliefs of the tribe will continue into the next generation. Although many Southern African tribes are founded upon a patriarchal concept of society female members of the community have just as important a role to play and guests can join them as they go out into the bush to collect herbs and medicinal plants to be used as part of a traditional healing ceremony.
Southern Africa is an unfettered and beautiful part of the world and having the opportunity to interact with this environment, however you choose to, not only promises a wonderfully rewarding and memorable experience but also helps to educate and instill within people the awareness and need to preserve this vibrant but fragile ecology.
Mahlatini is a luxury tour operator specialising in safari holidays and tailor made breaks to Southern Africa and the Indian Ocean Islands.
Photo Credits: giraffe silhouettes, Sossusvlei, leopard, initiation
Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Monkey Business or Go Ape!
by Kerry-Anne Smith of Sanctuary Retreats
Despite being primates, there are several differences between the main species of apes: gorillas, chimpanzees, orang-utans and gibbons; and monkeys, of which there are hundreds of varieties. The best way to find these differences for yourself is to see them in the wild, either on a luxury safari or a guided trek. This blog takes a look at several of the main species and gives some suggestions on where to go to experience them in the wild.
Gorillas
The best way to see the differences between gorillas and other types of apes is to go trekking on a Uganda safari, or visit Rwanda or the Democratic Republic of Congo to see the endangered mountain gorillas in the wild. These fascinating apes live in families of up to 30 gorillas with a silverback (the head male), several females and a number of juvenile and infant gorillas. To be able to trek in the forests on a Uganda safari, you need to purchase a gorilla permit which entitles you to spend one hour watching a specific gorilla family. At US$500, this experience is not cheap, but it is something you will remain a lifetime memory.
Gibbons
There are about 15 species of this smaller tree-dwelling ape. Gibbons are well-known for their leaping, they are great acrobats reaching speeds of up to 35mph as they travel 20-40 feet between branches. But you will have to look up to see them in the wild. Their home in the trees can be up to 200 feet off the ground. To see them, head to the tropical and sub-tropical forests of Asia in Vietnam, Cambodia, Laos, Thailand, Malaysia, China, Bangladesh, India or Myanmar.
Chimpanzees
There are two species of chimpanzee – the common and the pygmy - the two species being the closest living relatives to humans. Living in large community groups, to see them in the wild and find out how they differ from other apes, it is best to travel to the tropical forests of western and central Africa on a Gambia or Uganda safari.
Orang-utans
The rain forests of the Malaysian islands of Borneo or Sumatra are the place to go to see the great orang-utans. With their long arms and reddish-brown hair, there are only an estimated 30,000 orang-utans left in the wild. Tours typically arrange visits to see and or help in conservation efforts for these amazing but threatened animals.
Monkeys
Not to be confused with apes, there are hundreds of species of monkeys found around the world. Unlike apes, most monkeys have tails and are much easier to see running along the tops of branches rather than hiding in forests or swinging from the tops of trees. Due to the numerous species of monkey, it is likely you will see them in any of the countries that you visit to see one of the four ape species, whether that is on a luxury safari in Africa, a holiday in Asia, or venturing further a field to the forests in Central and Latin America. Watch out, in some places they are likely to steal your lunch!
Photo Credits: gibbon, orang-utan
Monday, August 1, 2011
Drinks Around the World: Pomegranate Juice (Morocco, Turkey)
The translucent seeds of the pomegranate glitter like rubies in the afternoon Moroccan sun. And nothing could refresh the body like pomegranate juice escaping after a few hours battling the hawkers, traders and crowds (and offers of mint tea) in the packed, humid, tangled labyrinthine souk in Marrakesh. Rarely sighted in Australia, pomegranates and pomegranate juice seem exotic luxuries that I was keen to taste.
Pushing the pomegranate into this primitive looking but cool machine, only hundreds of little red berries (called arils) remain. These hundreds of tiny liquid sacs are placed in a juicer along with a touch of orange blossom water (it's new to me too!), to produce a blood red syrupy juice.
The tartness startles a dry mouth with the first sip (a bit like cranberry) but remains just sweet enough to be truly refreshing and thirst quenching.
Marketing of the product makes it sound like liquid tiger balm, associated with being the magic elixir for a whole host of diseases and ailments. It is undoubtedly healthy with lots of vitamins but I suspect the claims are vastly overstated.
Available throughout parts of north Africa, the Middle East and Turkey, seek out a local stand for juice from this wonderful juice and help recover from the parching desert heat.
Photo Credits: juice, pomegranate
Monday, July 25, 2011
A Magic Carpet Ride Through Agadez (Niger)
Only with travel for days through the Sahara Desert are the dusty streets of Agadez a welcome sight. Belying its history as a grand city on the Saharan trade route, the dust and unrelenting heat grants no relief from the Sahara but the adobe architecture gives Agadez an almost fanciful Arabian feel as if Aladdin and his magic lamp could be wandering the streets.
The stifling conditions (well over 110 degrees) and flurries of dust slow Agadez into a dawdling city. People walk patiently along the sandy ramshackle maze of streets and past centuries-old adobe houses (some decorated with beautiful fascias) while others lean on mud walls in disinterested conversation. Only the children appear to the energy to defeat the heat with simple but competitive games on the wider streets, their smiles seemingly radiating even more heat. Their earnest pleas of donnez-moi un cadeau are easily ignored before they quickly resume their entertaining activities.
Like a porcupine standing tall on its hind legs, the highlight of Agadez is the 500 year old adobe Grand Mosque. Large wooden poles protruding from all sides provide the spine for the magnificent minaret giving an appearance of a spiky tree. Standing proud and central among the low-set maze of adobe buildings, the minaret is clearly visible from far around, highlighting the Islamic heart of Agadez. 
Reputedly, the minaret is the tallest mud building in the world. Several times a day, a steady, unhurried bustle of folks quietly leave the homes or market stalls and proceed to prayer. Mind you, the wonderful minaret is less welcome at dawn as the harmonious chanting of the muezzin and the call to prayer echo through the narrow streets awakening everyone for miles around. Outside of prayer a small fee to a minder allows interested visitors to stroll the narrow dingy staircase barefooted to the top of the minaret for a view over the labyrinthine lanes of the Old Quarter (Vieux Quartier) and the shimmering beauty of the Sahara Desert.
Unkempt corrugated sheds mark the two main markets selling the usual array of food (mainly trucked in from the fertile south and nearer oasis villages) and other goods. The colourful outfits and people are far more interesting than the goods for sale.
Featuring an arid, dusty paddock full of camels, goats and sheep baking in the harsh desert sun, the Camel Market has provided centuries of trade for the nomadic Tuareg people. Oblivious to the stench, all the animals appear to mill around together though the owner will miraculously materialise from the relative cool of a shaded tree as soon as any of his brood are approached. Occasional deals take place after quiet, almost surreptitious negotiation, a handshake and tiny rolls of weathered banknotes are passed. 
A strong case for conversion to vegetarianism is the butcher’s area. Goats (and probably other animals) are butchered in surprising numbers, razor-sharp knives skilfully carving cuts of meat on rickety tables with occasionally specks staining the protective robes. No part of the animal is wasted though there is little in the way of sales activity and a complete absence of refrigeration (which begs the question – where does all this meat end up?). The smell permeates the entire area, whole carcasses hanging from posts throughout the area.
A familiar symbol around the necks of many inhabitants is the famed Agadez Cross (croix d’Agadez). Each Tuareg town has its own unique cross still made in the same ancient manner by family silversmiths. A wax model of the desired design is artfully carved before encasing it in a clay mould. The clay is baked in ovens, the wax slowly melted and dripped out through weep holes to leave the final mould. Molten silver is poured into resultant clay mould, cooled with the clay broken away to produce the final silver Agadez Cross. Further carving, scraping and polishing leaves the final beautiful jewellery piece.
While the process is fascinating and the artisan’s skills undoubted, the sales pressure is intense, making Moroccan carpet shop keepers appear shy and retiring in contrast!
Niger is one of the ten poorest countries on Earth with many palpable signs of poverty. It rarely features on a travel itinerary. However Agadez is a remarkable town with superb mud architecture, a photogenic mosque, a lively market and a cultural melting pot where Arabic Africa meets dark Africa. Jump on a magic carpet and enjoy a memorable experience in the grand Saharan city of Agadez.
Photo Credits: Street life, panorama
Thursday, July 21, 2011
The Splendours of Makadi Bay (Egypt)
guest post by Red Sea Holidays
Egypt is home to many ancient splendours and modern attractions, making the country a favourite Middle Eastern holiday destinations. And why not? Situated between the Mediterranean Basin and the Red Sea, Egypt has a great range of tempting locations in which to stay for a short break or for a long holiday – the choice is up to you. And if Egypt’s the destination, make Makadi Bay, on the eastern coast, the travel base. 
One of the new resorts springing up along the Red Sea, Makadi Bay is an experience in Egyptian luxury and hospitality that shouldn’t be missed. Based around leisure, shopping, and activities, Makadi Bay is the perfect destination for those seeking escapism, pampering, relaxation and something a little different. The resort is home to bars, restaurants, shops, bazaars, and the latest in relaxation facilities; there are also amazing beaches and stunning views of the arid land between the Nile and the Red Sea. Just south of Hurghada, the capital of the Red Sea governorate and site of the closest international airport, the resort is incredibly easy to reach. If none of that sounds ideal enough already, the resort acts as a fantastic base for trips to other places of interest in Egypt and out in the Red Sea.
Due to the nature of the resort, the quality of accommodation is really high; you can book with complete ease of mind that, whatever your budget, your stay will be comfortable and of a superb standard. Egyptian service is beyond compare, as all visitors are welcomed here and every need is catered for. Looking for adventure and activity? The water sports are incomparable: the Red Sea is one of the most fascinating dive sites in the world, and Makadi Bay is perfect for beginner and professional alike. Swimming, horse riding, tennis, indoor climbing, whatever particular thrill you’re seeking, Makadi Bay offers it. As well as entertainment on tap, the resort has some of the best spa and relaxation facilities in the area. For those needing pampering, the massages, spas, indoor pools and health gyms will provide the relief necessary for a true holiday. 
The bars, restaurants and shops located with the resort-town are definitely recommended. A world of cuisines is available, with a restaurant to suit every taste and enough places to experience a different flavour every day for at least a month. Don’t miss the local restaurants offering authentic Middle Eastern fare. The shops are individualistic and fascinating, enough to tempt even the most retail-resistant partner into browsing for hours. Finding a souvenir was never so easy. And at night, the bars and clubs come to life: the nightlife is vibrant and fun, so expect to make new friends and enjoy new experiences during a stay in Makadi Bay.
However long the visit, whatever your budget, and whatever personal taste, there is something here for everyone. Makadi Bay is considered part of the Red Sea Riviera for a reason: visit and experience the comfort and the exquisite beauty on offer in style.
Photo Credits: sunrise, resort, fish, bar
Friday, July 1, 2011
Drinks Around the World: Palm Wine (Ghana)
Both a suspicion of local liquids that travelling in Africa brings and the unappealing look of the foamy, milky offering in a local bowl should have ensured that I never tasted palm wine or nsafufuo that the local Ghanaians call it (the Nigerians call it emu which entertains this Australian). Little specks of vegetable matter (or were they small insects) loll on the surface like holiday-makers on their favourite summer beach.
With a feigned look of pleasure I cautiously lift the bowl to my lips. To my surprise, a semi-sweet fluid drips onto my tongue like a velvet candy bar. Quickly I enjoy a few more mouthfuls of this luscious drink, bored of lukewarm beer and treated water. Though there is no sense of alcoholic taste or odour, palm wine is potent and is a poor mixer with the harsh Ghanaian sun. It has a similar flavour to creamy liquors but is somehow more refreshing and natural.
Palm wine is popular throughout West Africa being stored in all kinds of strange vessels from fancy local artistic calabashes to sun-cracked plastic bottles. Often available by the glass or cup in markets, palm wine varies in sweetness, the unsavoury cloudy appearance being no clue as to the intensity of flavour.
Collection requires athletic folks to scamper up the tree using a vine or rope to support them. After a careful cut, the tapper strategically places a container or gourd at the base of the palm fronds to collect the dripping palm nectar (which instantly starts fermenting on leaving the palm).
I have no idea if it is true but I was told that monkeys drink the alcoholic potion, intoxicated primates tumbling uncontrollably from the palm trees in an uncivilised display from our biologically near relatives. Ghanaians telling the story teeter unsteadily mimicing the drunken monkeys, laughing uproariously but I don't know if the joke is on the poor monkeys or the gullible visitor listening to the tale.
If you get the chance in Ghana or neighbouring country (and you most likely will), accept the generous offer to taste this delicious and velvety potion.
Photo Credits: palm wine container, palm wine, tree climber
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
Volunteer Wildlife Conservation (Tanzania)
Sam Lloyd reports from the Kilembero Valley in Tanzania, where he is working for Frontier, a UK based NGO, on a conservation project that is working with the local community to protect the vital Ruipa Corridor. The resurrection of wildlife corridors is a favourite conservation issue of mine and Frontier are doing great work in this area. 
Between the gargantuan Selous game reserve and the mighty Udzungwa mountains nestles the Kilombero valley. This rich tapestry of wetlands and forests once linked these two game reserves, allowing elephants, buffalo and other great beasts to pass between them. Today however the area is greatly degraded. The steady drip of deforestation has turned to a raging torrent as large numbers of immigrants have moved to the area and cleared land for great herds of cattle. There remains one dwindling hope that the two reserves can remain connected, a strip of remaining forest called the Ruipa Corridor. This potential link is currently all but vanished with a well used road blocking the way and farms encroaching on it from all directions. It would be a blow to conservation if these two reserves were to be cut off from each other, limiting genetic flow between their animal inhabitants.
In a project funded by DEFRA, progress has been made to halting the destruction of this crucial natural highway, bringing together four villages in the most vulnerable area to form land management plans. These plans would crystallize an agreement between the villagers to conserve the remaining fragments, preventing them from being illegally sold or destroyed. The project has already managed to ignite the enthusiasm of the local people; at one recent meeting two hundred people turned up, many cycling four hours each way just to hear about the project. All that the plans require is for the area to be mapped so that they can be made based upon accurate land use information.
That’s where I and our wildlife conservation volunteers come in. The local people need the resources that the forests supply, from medicines to timber. They collectively own the resources and no conservation project in this area will succeed unless they are happy with their decision to conserve. As a conservation biologist I hope that we will be able to streamline the development of plans, both acting as mediators and giving advice. For example we are going to continue existing work and attempt to identify the most crucial fragments of the corridor to large mammals, meaning that the strongest conservation effort can be concentrated where it is most needed.
It is unsure at this stage whether this once pulsing natural artery will flow again in the future. If we are lucky it will be possible to bring this corridor back from the brink of destruction. If not then at least we hope to safeguard enough significant fragments of the corridor to allow future generations to regenerate the corridor and re-link these two reserves. I sincerely hope that it will be possible to help provide the local people with the tools to help them protect their natural resources as the uncertain future unfolds.
About Frontier
Frontier was established in 1989 as a non-profit conservation and development NGO dedicated to safeguarding biodiversity and ecosystem integrity and building sustainable livelihoods for marginalised communities in the world's poorest countries. You can find all of Frontier’s latest scientific reports by visiting the Publications area of their website.
Sunday, June 19, 2011
Sahara: The Endless Desert (Algeria and Niger)
The inky blackness is only broken by a glittering sea of stars. Meteorites paint short-lived stripes of light across the cosmos. The Milky Way gleams like a celestial highway unsighted in the urban areas of the world. Snuggling into a sleeping bag - yes, it gets cool at night despite reaching well into the fifties (over 120 in the Fahrenheit scale) during the day – there is a strange sensation of a vast emptiness. The eerie silence is suffocating. The air is dead still.
Undoubtedly, one of the most treasured and unique travel experiences is sleeping under the stars in the unworldly endless expanse of the Sahara. Though alert, the nothingness and the silence dulls the senses into sleep.
There are no roads and no people. The path is defined by regular marker posts every few kilometres to ensure that your vehicle doesn’t career off into the wilderness (or is that, even greater wilderness). Apart from vague tracks in the sand, there are no signs of life.
Yet, the Sahara (desert in Arabic) is full of surprises. A lone tree is marked on our map, an ideal spot for lunch and a little escape from the draining rays of the sun.
In many areas, huge windswept dunes, perfectly sculpted by nature, rear from the desert floor (see top photo). They reflect the early morning and evening sun in an artist’s palette of red, gold and ochre, the gentle waves creating a striped landscape. But, the landscape is far more than a giant sandpit. Rocks litter the path while barren mountains, pockmarked and weather beaten by the cruel environment, gives definition and shape to the Sahara.
In the morning, our small party makes tea when two Tuareg people (or maybe Berber?) and their lumbering camel stroll into our group. Wrapped in indigo headwear and near matching robes and undoubtedly aware of us from the night, we must have made for a most incongruous sight. They join us for a quiet warming cup but little conversation takes place, their language completely indecipherable to our ears (certainly not French or Arabic). As mysteriously as they arrived, they walk off into the heat dissolving into the horizon and heat.
The parching sand and rock and the unrelenting sun casts images of shimmering waters afar. I have enough water but what these mirages must have done for travellers past, desperate for water to soothe their dried throats.
The path south through Algeria includes a number of cars, expired in the conditions. Clearly there for some time, the paintwork sandblasted away but the unrelenting dry preserving the car body. What comes of the driver and passengers?
After days, a small settlement and the southern extent of the Sahara comes into sight. A ramshackle stone village with only a handful of people sits uneasily in the Saharan landscape. An old woman stands near the entrance stooped at an awkward angle, her wizened face straining from the effort of sweeping the sand from her tiny one room house. The brush is nearly as worn as the woman wielding it. Her husband sits outside, his body near lifeless and sapped of energy from the years of extracting life from the harsh climate. 
Stopping for mint tea, the couple describe the ongoing southern retreat of their village. They estimate that a few more years will see them moving further south, the sand winning a cruel battle for the village as the Sahara marches grimly south. Heart-wrenching stories of hunger and death in sub-Saharan countries like Niger will increase as the Sahara unrelentingly grows south at an estimated rate of around 50 kilometres per year, swallowing once fertile soils with desert.
The Sahara is a difficult journey with complicated and ever-changing visa and travel arrangements. The effort is rewarded with a unique limitless landscape of rock and sand, a nothingness where you continue to see and discover new things. A place that sparks your senses and fills your memories forever.
Note: No photos (by request) were taken of the village. A general photo of desertification courtesy of John Spooner.
Tuesday, June 14, 2011
Exploring Johannesburg (South Africa)
guest post by Amy Baker
Mention Johannesburg and often people will dismiss it as being a place famous for the danger you are sure to face should you choose to go there. The reality is very different. Johannesburg is a city rich in fascinating history and culture and as the major gateway to Kruger National Park, not to mention the rest of South Africa, Johannesburg is well worthy of some exploration.
A population of 3.2 million citizens makes Johannesburg the largest city in the country. Interestingly it is the largest city in the world not to be situated on a lake, river or coastline and is a result of the gold mining industry which earned it the nickname ‘Egoli’ or ‘Place of Gold’. Gold mining is still the major trade in the city and you will see reminders of this dotted all around.
Due to such a mix of cultures, a wander around the city can reward you with sights of brand-new skyscrapers nestled next to impressive 19th century buildings. One minute you might be exploring an Indian bazaar and the next you could find yourself haggling over produce in an African multi-shop. In addition to this Johannesburg hotels and restaurants are some of the best you will experience in South Africa.
As a tourist, it is important to gain an understanding of the culture and history of a country and to get a true grasp on Apartheid, a visit to the Soweto Township comes highly recommended. You can tour around the area on foot, by car or by bike. Soweto is the all-black area most famous for the Soweto Uprising of 1976 which saw close to 200 people killed as they protested against Afrikaans becoming the major language spoken in black schools. There is an insightful and thought-provoking museum, along with a moving memorial (photo) named after one of the child casualties, Hector Pieterson. 
Nelson Mandela was a resident of Soweto and visitors have the opportunity to visit his modest, old house (photo) which has since been made into a museum. Another museum worth a visit is the Apartheid museum which offers another way to learn more about the country that you are holidaying in before you venture further afield. The Old Fort Prison was once home to Mahatma Gandhi and Mandela and you can walk in their shoes on one of the tours held daily.
To gain a sense of Johannesburg’s sprawling CBD and the suburbs and shanty towns beyond, take a ride to the top of the Carlton Centre, the tallest building in Africa. The observation deck sits at 731ft high and provides an excellent perspective of the city.
The drive from Johannesburg to Kruger is an adventure in itself and during the three hour journey you will pass through the dense city, through the urban sprawl and out into the well tended farmland and vast landscape that will accompany you all the way to the National Park and, hopefully, your unforgettable encounters with The Big Five and their friends. For more information, head to My Destination Johannesburg.
Photo Credits: city view, elephant, gold mine, Pieterson memorial, Mandela house, Carlton Center view
