Saturday, June 11, 2011

Wartburg Castle: A Thousand Years of German History (Eisenach, Germany)

The unrelenting climb up the forested slopes outside Eisenach (whether by foot, donkey or shuttlebus) past the towering plain walls highlights the imposing location of Wartburg Castle. Shaped like a cigar (click layout to enlarge) with one narrow gated entrance and with such natural defences, Wartburg Castle has played a significant role in German history and is a powerful symbol of the Reformation. Almost a thousand years old, the castle is a pot-pourri of building styles and architecture and has played witness to some of the most significant aspects of German history.

A tour of the castle focuses on the historic Palace (or Palas), built in the 1100s. On the ground floor are the cavernous Knight’s Hall and Dining Room along with the unusual Elizabeth’s Bower. The room was encrusted with glistening mosaics last century in memory of Saint Elizabeth who in a remarkable but short life married Wartburg’s owner in the early 1200s, donated to the poor her entire life, reputed had bread taken from the castle for the poor miraculously turn to roses, died at age 24 and was canonised by the church only four years later. An entire passage way details her life in a sequence of murals.

The first floor includes the chapel and the Hall of Minstrels where a famous singing competition (a kind of 13th century American Idol) were conducted resulting in a Wagner opera (Tannhäuser) centuries later and a beautifully painted room with excerpts from medieval. Six of the finest voices competed, with the poorest effort to be punishable by death (which would focus the practice sessions to say the least!!). The top floor is a grand festival hall that continues to be used and which leads to an excellent museum.

The highlight of Wartburg is undoubtedly the Bailiff’s Lodge and Luther’s Room. It includes a modest wood-panelled room where Martin Luther in 1521, excommunicated from the Church (after nailing his demands to a Wittenberg church), hid as the Knight George or Junker Jörg (as the portrait behind the desk shows) and translated the bible into German (in a frenzied ten weeks). Sadly the furniture isn’t original but it is a moving location, and a pilgrimage site to many. Witness and feel how a man in disguise changed German and Christian history and culture, a change that continues to affect the world today.

Luther bought commonality to the German language, a new branch to Christianity (Lutherians) improved methods in translation and bought the words of the most powerful book in Christendom to the common people. Two centuries later Goethe, the father of German language, worked at Wartburg bringing a more modern Bible translation.

In 1817 as detailed by a beautiful woodblock painting, Wartburg Castle was the central rallying site for students protesting for German unity (Burschenschaften). Having hidden Luther and having recently defeated Napoleon, Wartburg was an ideal symbol for German nationality and was the source of the black, red and yellow tricolour that became the German flag a century later.

Enjoy the grounds and the various buildings before taking a final walk up the South Tower, which offers a superb view of the tiny township of Eisenach, the castle grounds and the Thuringian Forest. Wartburg Castle is UNESCO World Heritage Listed and one of Germany’s finest travel wonders. View a thousand years of architecture and history where a saint lived her short life, Martin Luther made his dramatic impact on Christianity and students protests led to the eventual unification of Germany.

Note: The Wartburg Castle website gives a good history and tour of the castle.

Note: The woodblock painting is in the public domain. Plan courtesy of CarneyCastle.

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Photo of the Week: Half-Timbered Beauty (Schiltach, Germany)

Seemingly lost in medieval times, the central Black Forest town of Schiltach is a jewel of half-timbered houses. The triangular market square has the most impressive samples, some dating back to the early 1600s.

Tuesday, June 7, 2011

Holidays in Algarve (Portugal)


guest post by Travel Republic

Often overlooked in favour of Spain, its larger neighbour, Portugal is bursting with sites and attractions that escape the scope of many tourists and remain national secrets. As a rule The Algarve sees more foreign visitors than the rest of Portugal but thousands of visitors still fail to visit some of the most amazing parts of the area. Holidays in Algarve can incorporate anything from national parks to deserted beaches and geographical phenomena. Anyone staying in Algarve who does not take the time to see at least one of the wonders of the area has to be a fool. Here is a short list of the most recommended places to visit during holidays in Algarve.

1. Sagres – A rocky outpost of coastline with imposing cliffs and the Atlantic Ocean to three sides. Sacres is the base where Prince Henry the Navigator based his Navigation Academy which led to Portugal’s Age of Navigation and allowed Spain’s little sister to discover and colonise across the globe. Christopher Columbus is one famous Alumni. Although the area was well protected by a sturdy fortress, Sir Francis Drake managed to break through all defences back in 1587.

2. Pera - A typical Portuguese coastal town that booms during summertime and turns itself into a coastal wonder. From May to September Pera hosts the quite unique Sand Sculpture Festival. Artists from around the world flock to the resort and compete to create the most spectacular sculpture from the ample sand. The festival has a different theme each year and a dazzling display awaits visitors at night when each of the sculpture is lit up coloured lights.

3. Castro Marim – Although the town of Castro Marim is pretty unassuming, the wonder of its surroundings is not to be missed. On the out skirts of the town, silver pyramids of salt scatter the landscape of 2000 hectares of salt pans. Unlike the famous salt flats of Bolivia, visitors are encouraged to explore the Castro Marim salt pans and can take a tour which covers centuries old methods of salt extraction.

4. Olhao – The Algarve’s prime spot for nature lovers. A rarely seen natural phenomenon happens along this stretch of the Algarve’s coastline which has led to the forming of inland lagoons and islands along the cliff tops which rise above the sea. The fertile land of woodland and marshes around the area has been colonised by native wildlife species and allowed indigenous flora and fauna to flourish.

5. Estoi – Home the Algarve’s most spectacular Palace. The splendid Palace at Estoi earns its status as a wonder due to its remarkable design and as a symbol of defiance. In contrast the conservative architecture of the time, wealthy landowner ordered that a palace be built on neo-roco and neo-baroque style. Even the gardens of the Palace challenged design protocol and were packed with erotic statues. The outbuilding of the palace houses a nativity scene which lies in stark contrast to the flamboyant style of the rest of the complex.

Photo Credits: Pera sand, salt, Olhao lagoon, Estoi Palace

Saturday, June 4, 2011

The Beauty and Terror of Loch Ard Gorge (Australia)


In sunshine, the Victorian coastline known as the Great Ocean Road offers panoramas of glistening blue ocean, natural beauty and a sense of serenity. The area is dotted with unusual and striking rock formations (several with evocative names like the Twelve Apostles, London Bridge and The Grotto) gradually being warn by the savage seas. When the weather is nasty, the ocean turns to a inky swirling maelstrom and the wind whistles in evil howls. For mariners, such weather must be hellish.

As such, the area is also known as Shipwreck Coast with over 700 ships recorded as lost through Australia's short history (less than a third have been located).

Days of thick fogs, grey skies, blustery winds and rough seas prevented the captain of the Loch Ard, an iron-hulled clipper sailing from England from completing his journey. Trying to navigate the brutal strait (threading the needle) between King Island and the mainland in the early winter of 1878, the Loch Ard plunged into a tiny rocky island just off the mainland called Muttonbird Island. Within fifteen short minutes, the ship sunk taking the lives of 52 of its passengers.

Miraculously, Tom Pearce, a young man of 18 clung to a lifeboat and was fortuitously swept through the narrow opening of Loch Ard Gorge onto a tiny peaceful beach. Hearing screams and spotting a young woman struggling in the waves clinging desperately to flotsam, Tom swam and rescued the only other survivor, the by-then unconscious Eva Carmichael. Revived by brandy from a washed up crate, both rested in a cave protected by a tiny strip of beach and surrounded by the suffocating cliffs of the gorge. After some rest, Tom climbed the steep cliffs (now a set of wooden stairs) to seek help and both were rescued. Neither saw each other ever after the rescue period, Eva returning to Ireland (Tom became a ship's captain!).

Today, visitors can quietly stroll the beach, visit the small cave, gaze at the vertical walls of the cliff and walk the pleasant trails around Loch Ard Gorge highlighting the peaceful triangle of water and the hidden gate to the Antarctic Ocean and open seas.

Nearby, people can see a living reminder of the unrelenting seas chipping away at the fragile limestone coast. Island Arch stood guard near Loch Ard Gorge for many centuries until in July, 2009 it collapsed leaving two pillars (read news article). These have been named Tom and Eva in memory of the two brave survivors of the area's most well-known shipwreck.

Similarly recent collapses lays witness to the continuing weathering and change in the area. Another of the Twelve Apostles toppled some years ago and London Bridge became London Arch in 1990.

For parts of this beautiful area, the road hugs the water as vistas of the rugged coastline open around each sweeping bend. Many rate it Australia's finest drive. Numerous stops and sidepaths highlight various rock formations and panoramic lookouts. Loch Ard Gorge is a highlight stop giving a glimpse into the feeling of desperation that young Tom and Eva, along with the passengers and crew of the Loch Ard must have felt as brutal weather, poor visibility and the savage coastline played in taking the lives of 52 people and how luck played such a part in saving two souls.

Photo Credit: post collapse Island Arch

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

Drinks Around the World: Mint Julep (USA)


I have always been tempted by the cool and refreshing tastes of mint-based drinks. This month brings us the Mint Julep, a product of the American south.

It was late in the afternoon on an oppressive day. The Louisianaians barman served in a voice like the neighbouring Mississippi River - slow, deep and muddy - and made the drink with the same slow, steady precision. The wooden bar seemed unchanged for many a decade and somehow seemed so suited to the area and the drink.

Simply muddle (softly mash) a handful of spearmint leaves with sugar and a spoonful of chilled water (the barman swore by the importance of the spoon of water). Tip into a glass, add bourbon and crushed ice and the drink is ready.

The tang of the mint makes the julep an extremely refreshing drink on a humid day while the sweetness offsets the strength of the corn whisky. The mint julep is renown as the drink of choice during America's most famouse horse race, the Kentucky Derby.

Similar in recipe to a mojito and a Brazilian caipirinho, mint leaves make a wonderful addition to many drinks and is worth trying at home as summer approaches.
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At the start of each month, Travel Wonders highlights a characteristic drink experienced on his travels. Previous Drinks Around the World include Mint Tea from Morocco, a Bloody Caesar from Canada, a Pisco Sour from South America and the Singapore Sling

Photo Credit: mint julep

 
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